Great method of cleaning rust from gas tanks

Repair Pointers Before Parts Arrive
The literature is $25.

Probably you are going to need a fuel pump kit $25. The rubber diaghram gives out with time and exposure to gasoline. The drive wheel rubber may gone or in good condition. You can tell by looking at it and squeezing it. This hard firm & good shape - OK. If not a new drive wheel is $28.

Newer engine models than yours (I am guessing age of yours) were equipped with a primer pump $25. Engines equipped with it do start easier and the pump will last longer. Plus it gives a method to test the fuel pump is properly installed - the engine block can be busted if the engine is attempted to start with a block full of fuel.

If you plan to mount the engine on a newer model bike (1970 – up) the forks are 5-1/2” wide center to center tan bike forks were in the (1960s). You will need a mounting kit - $15 to spread out the frame of the engine and have the drive wheel run true.

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE OLD HOSES TO "Carburetor and Fuel Pump" WITHOUT RECEIVING THE LITERATURE FIRST. Fuel lines may be hardened and cracked - you can buy replacements for $5.00 (These do not cause air bubbles problems in the carburetor (which will probably need cleaning to - simple to do - Don't turn adjusting bolt on bottom). Will provide you some tips on doing this that will prevent allot of headaches and repairs in literature.

REPAIRS YOU CAN DO PRIOR TO RECEIVING LITERATURE.

Other than that - what is the condition of the gas tank? If it was drained. It would be good to flush it with a little fresh gas. If not put some bolts & nuts in with some camping fuel (white gas) and shake them it around to knock off the old varnish and rust. If it is badly rusted there are commercial gas tank cleaning kits other folks have used from automobile part stores that work well. I have put some of my old gas tanks in the dishwasher with dish washing power inside - very caustic and will get out rust. Might knock off paint though so you have to make a judgment call on that plus what the wife thinks about that.
An electronic method that works well on some tanks is as follows:
use a power washer to remove all loose rust and sediment. I then fill
the tank with water and add a tablespoon of Arm & Hammer soda for every
gallon of water. Then get a battery charger and connect the positive
(red) terminal to a piece of wire attached to a stainless electrode
(such as a stainless bolt or a stainless spoon) and lower the wire and
electrode into the water making sure it does not touch the bottom or
sides. This is the anode. Then attach the negative terminal to the
tank itself (The cathode). If your charger has a meter, be sure some
current is flowing. Fine bubbles will rise from the stainless anode when
cleaning is in progress. Typical cleaning time for moderately rusted
objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left over night.
Then wash the inside of the tank again and dry it out with compressed
air or a hair dryer.

The foot valve in the gas tank may be frozen too. You can free it up with BD Breaker (automobile part stores) after you cut the old felt off. If it does rattle when you shake it - boil it on the stove top in cooking oil (there again - be careful about the wife's opinion on that). You can buy new felt - cut some round holes it and slip it over the valve. If the valve still won't rattle or you can't blow but can suck through it. It may be shot. Have replacements for $15.
You can also check for fire or spark on the engine by taking out the spark plug and turning the drive wheel by hand. 1st look for the spark and if none try the twinkle test by holding the spark plug and turning the drive wheel. If no twinkle then remove the three bolts on the flywheel cover (where starting instructions are posted). Take a 12 or 13 mm socket mounted on a rechargeable drill and turn the engine with it. No spark try a electric cord drill (Be careful doing this). Don’t want to turn the engine too fast without getting everything freed up first.